If you are attending this workshop, feel free to bring your own Reaper BONES. I have enough (donated by Reaper) for each person in the workshop to paint one humanoid mini (and you get to keep it when you're done), but if you'd rather work on your own BONES minis, feel free to bring them.
Be sure to wash them in warm soapy water (and a quick scrub with an old toothbrush doesn't hurt) to remove the mold-release material from the minis, otherwise the paint will have a harder time sticking to the miniature.
Thanks, and see you at 6pm Friday!
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I would love to bring my own Sean, but I have the feeling my shipment will be the last out Reaper's door (or at least I won't be getting them before I leave Wednesday).
But, I gotta say, I am looking forward to this immensely. Not having painted minis since the early/mid 80's any pointers that can be gotten will be of enormous help when the big box arrives.
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I'm working on a video blog about this process from start to finish; that'll be easier to follow (and shoot) than trying to capture it live at the panel while I'm walking around trying to give personal instructions to people as they paint. :)
Like I said, no problem, I'll have a variety of humanoids to choose from. :)
Eric, painting a Bones mini isn't really different than painting a pewter one. One advantage of Bones is you don't have to coat them with primer; unlike metal minis, you can paint right onto a clean Bones mini.
Don't worry, it's easy stuff. :)
My Bones arrive on Tuesday, but honestly with working right up until I leave for the drive I doubt I'm going to do much past take a quick look at the things. Unlike Robert I got my own Vampire all to myself plus a bunch of additional things.. I suspect I am gonna be sick of painting by the time I am done with em.
I am really looking forward to the class, was one of my top lottery picks.
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I'm working on a video blog about this process from start to finish; that'll be easier to follow (and shoot) than trying to capture it live at the panel while I'm walking around trying to give personal instructions to people as they paint. :)
That's awesome! I would love to watch (and then rewatch again and again) that! Can we assume it will not be finished until after PaizoCon?
This was actually one of my highest rated Lottery events and (frustratingly) was not able to get in.
So I am looking forward to a video blog of “how to”. Ironically I just received an email stating I will receive my BONES minis tomorrow via UPS. However, I will be leaving tomorrow for PaizoCon. Ugh.
Fortunately I have someone who can pick them up. :)
That's awesome! I would love to watch (and then rewatch again and again) that! Can we assume it will not be finished until after PaizoCon?
Correct--too many other things I need to have ready at PaizoCon for me to finish it. :/ Also, too humid in Seattle these past few days for my primer-test minis to dry properly, which was one of the things I'm going to show in the video (primed Bones vs. unprimed Bones).
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Sean-
What are your thoughts on minis with multiple paint techniques required such as cloth, chainmail, and fur? The reason I am asking is because the mini I want to paint has all three of these aspects and I am wondering if it would be too time consuming to dabble in all three of these for the Paint Reaper Bones seminar.
That's awesome! I would love to watch (and then rewatch again and again) that! Can we assume it will not be finished until after PaizoCon?Correct--too many other things I need to have ready at PaizoCon for me to finish it. :/ Also, too humid in Seattle these past few days for my primer-test minis to dry properly, which was one of the things I'm going to show in the video (primed Bones vs. unprimed Bones).
Sean-
In your experience with the Bones, after you do the initial paint with the thicker coating (like suggested on the Reaper boards), can you then apply thinned paint? I know the Bones have a hard time with water, didn't know if the initial coat served as a "blocker" and allowed the paint to adhere better?
I would ask this in person, but I didn't get to apply for lottery events, darn guest badge! lol
SG
Frog God Games
Skeeter, I've found that the base coat does indeed serve as a blocker, although not with a wash. I had a terrible time with some Games Workshop paints, which beaded up and rolled away as if I was trying to paint a stick of butter, but a single coat of Reaper paint solved the problem.
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The techniques really aren't that different for those "materials" on a mini.
The three basic techniques for painting minis are:
• applying a flat, consistent layer of paint to a mini
• drybrushing
• ink washing
Once you know how to do those three things, you're able to do a pretty good paint job on most minis.
Cloth? Flat layer of one color, perhaps with a drybrush of a lighter color over that.
Chainmail? Flat layer of metal paint, with a darker ink wash. OR flat layer of metal paint with a drybrush of a lighter metal color over that.
Fur? Flat layer of a dark fur color with a drybrush of a lighter fur color over that.
And you'll improve the more you practice.
I used to run my painting-intro workshops for just one hour, but that wasn't quite enough time. Now they're two hours, and that's PLENTY of time to learn the basics and end up with a tabletop-ready miniature, even if you've never painted before. For example, here is a collage of a bunch of minis painted at one of my workshop, most of them by first-time painters.
Be sure to wash them in warm soapy water (and a quick scrub with an old toothbrush doesn't hurt) to remove the mold-release material from the minis, otherwise the paint will have a harder time sticking to the miniature.
Huh. Is that why I've been having so much trouble painting my Bones? Good to know. I'll have to do that in the future...
Huh. Is that why I've been having so much trouble painting my Bones? Good to know. I'll have to do that in the future...
Be sure to wash them in warm soapy water (and a quick scrub with an old toothbrush doesn't hurt) to remove the mold-release material from the minis, otherwise the paint will have a harder time sticking to the miniature.
Watched a youtube video, and the guy took the mini out of the blisterpack, ran a damp & soapy toothbrush over the mini, rinsed, and took a hairdryer to speed drying. I dont know if the process is 100% perfect, be he said he's had very good results after doing that.
SG
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I put about an inch of water in my sink, add a little soap to create some bubbles, dump in the minis, scrub each with a toothbrush, then rinse the whole batch. I do it with metal minis, too (the mold is coated with powder to help prevent the metal from sticking, and that powder ends up on the mini and can mess with painting).
GE, don't be afraid to link it. :)
EDIT: Then again, I suppose after PaizoCon we'll just have to start a new thread, right?
I too am very interested in a tutorial video! Thanks for going to the trouble.
Honestly what I liked the most is what Sean did to the translucent minis.. I would love a 'how to' for that.
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I'll be posting about that eventually. :)
That's just basic craft paint, I think I bought it at Michael's. "Apple Barrel" is one of the brand names for that paint, but there are several brands of similar basic paints that use those tall bottles (Craft Smart, etc.).
(The box of supplies is still at home, not in my office, otherwise I'd give you a more precise answer.)
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Cool ... I will make a stop over at Michael's on the way home and see what they have ... the metallic paint you had on hand ended up looking quite good (better than the ones I remember from back in the day) ... got the Bones shipment on Friday and have a hankerin' to do some painting (and to reinforce some of the tips you gave before too much time has passed).
Woo! :)
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I'm pretty suprised by this. Every mini painting video or forum has strongly recommened using actual mini paints - Reaper, Valejo, etc.
mini paints have smaller flecks of color in them, meaning they cover small details without hiding them better. most of these were painted with craft store paint, you just need to be careful